Madhya Pradesh is located roughly in the center of India and is the country’s largest state. It is one of India's most popular tourist destinations, with dozens of national parks and hundreds of forts, temples, and ruins spanning thousands of years of human history. It’s a great place to visit if you love wildlife (especially tigers), fossils, geology, as well as castles and historical attractions of all sorts. The landscape is, however, very flat compared to the nearby Western Ghats or the Himalayas. There are two mountain ranges in Madhya Pradesh, both of which are more like chains of hilly volcanic buttes. These are the Satpura and Vindhya Ranges, which flank the Narmada River. There are 1099 named mountains in Madhya Pradesh. The highest point is Dhupgarh (1,352 m / 4,436 ft), a basalt plateau part of the Deccan Traps.

Geography

Madhya Pradesh (“Central District” in Hindi) is located in the center of India (go figure). It’s the second-largest state by area and the fifth-most populous, with 72 million people. If it were its own country, Madhya Pradesh would be the world’s 20th largest. The capital, Bhopal, is in the state's center, just north of Satpura National Park.

However, Madhya Pradesh is also a rural state by Indian standards. The largest city, Indore, is west of Bhopal and has a population of just 2.1 million. Though not as populous, the city of Ujjain is a significant historical site. Ujjain was the former capital of Avanti, one of the original districts of ancient India. Gwalior and Jabalpur are also major metropolitan areas, with over 2 million people each.

Madhya Pradesh is a landscape of rolling volcanic hills and river valleys. It’s northeast of the Western Ghats, which run along India's west coast. Two major mountain ranges in Madhya Pradesh are the Satpura and Vindhya ranges, on either side of the Narmada River. Calling them “mountains” is a little generous; the region is more of an elevated plateau, with many small volcanic buttes and plateaus. The highest peak, Dhupgarh, in the Satpura Range, is only 1,300 meters (5,400 ft) tall. The Vindhyas, by comparison, are even lower.

While it’s not exactly what you’d call mountainous, Madhya Pradesh is still a beautiful landscape of hilly subtropical forest populated with fantastic wildlife. The area is a massive tourist destination, with thousands (or even hundreds of thousands) of years of human history, spectacular architecture, and natural vistas.

Regarding natural vistas, there are half a dozen national parks and protected areas in Madhya Pradesh. Many of the protected areas in the state are tiger reserves and don’t have many options for recreation. But if you’re interested in ecotourism, it’s a perfect spot.

Geology

As I mentioned, there are two mountain ranges in Madhya Pradesh, the Satpura and Vindhya Mountains. Both ranges run east to west, bordering the Narmada River. Together with the Eastern Ghats, this area is called India’s eastern highlands.

India’s geological history is fascinating and complicated. The Indian subcontinent sits on its own tectonic plate, which is ramming into the Eurasian Plate to the north. This convergent boundary, where the two meet, is creating the Himalayas. However, in Madhya Pradesh, the defining geological feature is the Deccan Traps.

The Deccan Traps (“trap” meaning “staircase” in this context) are a colossal area of flood basalt created by an oceanic volcanic eruption. Widespread lava flowed out of the crust, forming huge layers of basalt that gradually eroded into bluffs and steppes. The entire area covers about 500,000 square km (200,000 sq mi), including the Satpura Range and the Western Ghats.

Taking the name literally, the Traps form a staircase of rock plateaus. Most of the peaks in Madhya Pradesh are basalt buttes. This makes for some interesting features, like columnar basalt. You can see some very pristine examples at Kavadia Pahad, near Pipari.

In some places, you can find other kinds of rock formations, usually in spots between lava flows. One example is the marble rocks, a gorge of rare soft marble slabs along the Narmada River.

Madhya Pradesh is also famous for its fossil beds. These are mostly found in the lameta formation. Many fossils have been found around Madhya Pradesh, including two species of Titanosaurs, some of the largest dinosaurs ever to live.

Ecology

Madhya Pradesh is a rolling landscape of subtropical deciduous forest, often called the Heart of India. Ecologically, it’s homogenous, with sweeping areas of hot, humid forest and swamps.

The area has very high plant and animal biodiversity, especially charismatic mammals. Of course, I’m mainly talking about tigers. Still, there are also leopards, sloth bears, dholes (wild dogs), hyenas, wolves, gaur (water buffalo), deer species like chitals (spotted deer), sambars, and barasinghas, Bengal foxes, and antelope.

There are 12 national parks and another 25 wildlife sanctuaries in the state. Most of these protected areas comprise pristine forests and unique wildlife, especially tigers. Here are a few of the more noteworthy parks in the state:

Kanha-Kisli National Park is the largest and best wildlife area in Madhya Pradesh. It’s located in the state's southeast corner, south of Jabalpur. The park is home to over 300 species of birds and dozens of large mammals, and it offers some of the best tiger viewing in India.

Bandhavgarh National Park sits north of Kanha-Kisli, covering 105 square km ( sq mi). Its lush landscape is similar to Kanha-Kisli and features a population of 135 tigers and 55 elephants. Gaur—Indian bison—were recently reintroduced to Bandhavgarh in 2012, years after being wiped out by disease. The park’s biggest draw is Bandhavgarh Fort, a ruined 10th-century fort atop a basalt plateau.

Madhav National Park in Shivpuri covers 167 square km ( sq mi) of forestland in the northern arm of Madhya Pradesh. The area had slowly degraded due to agriculture until it was set aside as a national park in 1956. It includes a tiger reserve with viewing areas to watch tigers hunt and George Castle, an English-style turreted castle from the early 1900s.

Human History

India was one of the first places people arrived when they migrated from Africa. People have lived in Madhya Pradesh almost as long as modern humans have existed; cave paintings at the Bhimbetka rock shelters outside Bhopal date back 100,000 years.

One of the named cultures we know of are the Kaytha, contemporaries of the Indus River Valley Civilization, who existed around 2,100 BCE. At the time, they were skilled in metallurgy and traded in swords. Since then, kingdoms and empires have risen and fallen again and again in Madhya Pradesh.

The earliest major city in Madhya Pradesh was Ujjain, which was built in 700 BCE and became the capital of the Avanti Kingdom. Avanti was one of the Mahajanapadas, the original districts of Ancient India.

When Chandragupta conquered India in 320 BCE, he established the Mauryan Empire, which included all of Madhya Pradesh. The Mauryan empire lasted hundreds of years and included the rule of Ashoka the Great, who spread Buddhism across Asia.

After the Mauryan Empire, different groups fought over Madhya Pradesh for hundreds of years. It was repeatedly conquered, held, lost, and re-conquered. In the fourth century, the Gupta Empire took over, followed by the Huns, a group of tribespeople from Central Asia.

During this centuries-long period of shifting borders, the Gwalior Fort was built, although it was destroyed at least once. The current structure, built in the 9th century, is the oldest intact fort in India. It’s also undoubtedly the most impressive, both aesthetically beautiful and entirely impregnable. The fort encircles two palaces, which are exceptionally ornate for their era. It also has the second oldest recording of the concept of “zero”—as in the number—which was revolutionary to mathematics and the development of human thinking.

The Mughals took over Madhya Pradesh in the 1500s but lost control in the 1700s. Power then shifted between rival groups, including the British Empire. The British Raj is an incredibly complex topic. In a nutshell, the British conquered India to control the country’s vast resources and exploit its population for cheap labor. In the process, they built infrastructure and created a reasonably peaceful era in India’s history.

The (mostly peaceful) fight for Indian independence lasted over a hundred years. India finally gained independence in 1947, and Madhya Pradesh was formally designated as a state in 1956.

Best Outdoor Adventures Madhya Pradesh

Hiking is not as popular in Madhya Pradesh as in other states; for one, most natural areas are full of tigers and leopards. It’s much more common to go on safari in search of wildlife than to hike or trek long distances.

That said, there are a few easy trails around the major cities and others in the national parks. Information is sparse, but there are a few resources to help you plan. Here are some highlights.

In Indiore, you can hike to the top of Ralamandal Hill (766 m / 2,513 ft). It’s a 4.3 km (2.7 mi) out and back with about 182 m (597 ft) of elevation gain. Swarna Jayanti Park also has a nice flat loop that’s good for bird-watching and running. It covers 5.1 km (3.2 mi) and about 83 m (275 ft) of vertical.

In Bhopal, you can take the Prem Pura Loop around Vanvihar National Park. It covers about 8.9 km (5.5 mi) and around 152 m (500 ft) of gain and has lovely river views. The park also has a zoo and is a good spot to see wildlife.

In Jabalpur, you can climb to Maa Sharda Temple, on a hilltop overlooking the city. The ascent is 4.8 km (3 mi) and involves climbing about 223 m (730 ft).

Kanha-Kisli National Park is the best place to go on a safari in Madhya Pradesh, with a population of 145 tigers. They also have leopards, barasingha, and sloth bears. The park has a few hiking trails, but don’t expect anything too long.

Nearby, Bandhavgarh National Park is also an excellent place to go on a safari. There is a trail to Bandhavgarh Fort, which sits on a volcanic plateau, but the park is not currently issuing permits to hike it.

Satpura National Park is also a standout. One multi-day hike in the park covers 36 km (22.3 mi), typically done in three days. It’s one of the only long-distance hikes in Madhya Pradesh. It crosses through a landscape of forest and rivers, with hilltop views and waterfalls along the way.

You can also hike to the summit of Dhupgarh from Pachmarhi. This is probably the most challenging trail in Madhya Pradesh (which isn’t saying much), and you can enjoy the Deccan Traps rolling off into the distance on a clear day. It covers about 457 m (1,500 ft) of elevation over 8.9 (5.5 mi), out and back.

Towns and Cities of Madhya Pradesh

Bhopal

Bhopal, the “City of Lakes,” is the capital of Madhya Pradesh and one of the state's most populous cities. It is one of the greenest cities in India, with 18 lakes, 18 parks, as well as greenbelts for walking and cycling. In addition to its green spaces, the city's biggest attractions are the Taj-ul-Masajid, a huge mosque, and the Madhya Pradesh Tribal Museum.

Indore

Indore is the largest city in Madhya Pradesh. It’s considered the cleanest city in India and is full of great architecture. Rajwada Palace, Shri Annapurna Temple, and the nearby ancient city of Mandu are all worth seeing.